Zhongzhen Cheng Mi Gan

Review

Zhongzhen Cheng Mi Gan sits at No. 38 Qianlong Street near the Longdong Road entrance to Zhongzhen Market; some listings place it in Pingzhen, others in Zhongli. It began as the nameless noodle shop locals knew well, packed every day without a sign, and only took the name Zhongzhen Cheng after a recent renovation. One diner says the broth has not changed in more than 30 years, making it a standard-bearer among the old military-village shops.

Unlike most clear-broth mi gan, the soup here is simmered from bean paste and pork bones without star anise or similar spices, giving a darker colour and a savoury, soy-like depth that suits those who like bold flavours. The signature bowl comes with liver, sliced pork and an egg, plus ginger, pickled greens and scallion, over silky noodles. Pea jelly is a popular side, and the house chilli oil is so fragrant that a spoonful lifts the whole bowl.

Praise focuses on the distinctive broth, the tender toppings and that jar of chilli oil, and many think it worth getting up early to queue. Critics say prices are on the high side for the market and the wait is long, while some find it no different from the neighbouring shops and not worth the queue; it also runs salty, so the salt-shy should take care.

It opens Tuesday to Friday from 6 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and until 2 p.m. on weekends, closed Mondays. Supertaste once listed the large signature bowl at NT$90 and pea jelly at NT$50, but prices may have changed, so confirm before you go. Arriving before 7 a.m. means a shorter wait; toward noon the line often spills outside, and takeaway orders are common. Parking around the market is tight, so use a nearby paid lot and walk.

It suits anyone comparing mi gan broths or who prefers a richer, soy-savoury style, as well as early-rising noodle fans. First-timers should order the mixed mi gan to get egg, liver and pork in one bowl, plus pea jelly or smashed cucumber, and be sure to try the chilli oil on the table. To avoid queues, come early on a weekday, and remember it is shut on Mondays.