Big Beard Mi Gan

Review

Big Beard Mi Gan is tucked into an alley of Zhongzhen Market at No. 173 Longping Road in Zhongli, with no sign over the door; the queue is the easiest way to find it. It is named after a former owner with a big beard, has sold nothing but mi gan for years, and is a word-of-mouth breakfast spot that Supertaste, Beauty321 and several market guides list as a Zhongzhen must-eat.

The noodles here come without liver or sliced pork, just scallion and egg. You choose spicy or not, medium or large, then egg ribbons, a soft egg, or a double egg. The broth is rich and layered, the egg ribbons turn fluffy and juicy as they soak it up, and every bowl is cooked to order, simple but satisfying. Ask for spice when you order and they will adjust it.

Fans praise the low price and full-flavoured broth, saying the simplicity lets the rice aroma of the noodles shine, and some call it the most local bowl in the market. Critics find the toppings too sparse with no meat, so it is not very filling, and some feel the place lacks warmth; between the queue and carrying your own bowl, it can seem ordinary next to its reputation.

Sources differ on hours: roughly from just after 5 a.m. until noon, with some listing irregular closing days and others closing Mondays and Tuesdays, so check before you go. Supertaste lists a medium bowl at NT$50, a large at NT$55 and an extra egg at NT$10; older reports quote lower prices, so go by the wall menu. You carry your bowl to your seat yourself, both dine-in and takeaway lines are common, and latecomers may miss out.

It suits anyone after the plainest local breakfast, or market-hoppers who want a light first stop before the next shop. Order a large bowl with a soft egg, and choose spicy for a more aromatic broth; bigger appetites can add side dishes or drinks from neighbouring stalls. Head out early, as it is often closed by around noon.