Paul's Canteen

Review

Paul's Canteen is a modest eatery on Siwei 3rd Road in Lingya. The Michelin Guide says the chef-owner once ran a kitchen in Macau and has about thirty years of experience; he now pairs ingredients bought fresh each day with techniques learned in Macau to cook mainly Taiwanese home dishes with light, refined seasoning, earning a place on the guide's list.

One signature Michelin names is a seasonal spinach and tomato scrambled egg, bright red and green with a peppery kick and a clean finish. At lunch, diners often order braised pork and beef cheek, described as so tender they fall apart at the touch of chopsticks. Vegetarians can ask ahead; one diner raved about a mushroom scrambled egg.

Praise focuses on delicate cooking, restrained salt and a relaxed room, and one foreign visitor called it the best meal of their Kaohsiung trip. Lunch has fewer choices but friendly prices, with diners mentioning roughly NT$250–350. The main drawback is limited seating and frequent full houses, so without a booking you may miss out; dinner also costs more than lunch.

Michelin lists Tuesday to Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., closed Mondays, while other listings also show dinner from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.; sources differ, so check before going. Cash only, air-conditioned, BYOB allowed, and Michelin advises booking. Siwei 3rd Road is near central arteries, so use a nearby car park.

Good for anyone wanting lighter Taiwanese food without heavy oil or salt, and for small groups bringing a bottle to linger over dinner. Solo at lunch, pick a braised dish like pork or beef cheek with rice; with friends in the evening, start with the seasonal scrambled egg and ask the chef to suggest dishes from the day's market.