A Fung's Harmony Cuisine

Review

A Fung's Harmony Cuisine on Jiangdu Street in Lingya is a small place with just four round tables, and the Michelin Guide lists it. The chef was born and raised in Kaohsiung and each season builds a theme around Taiwan's land and the food cultures of its many communities, while his wife explains the ideas and stories behind the ingredients at the table. Diners mention the chef once ran a kitchen overseas before opening here.

The room has traditional hand-woven rattan chairs, round stone tables and vintage patterned windows, small and cosy. Michelin lists no fixed signature because the menu follows the seasonal theme. Dishes diners have shared include white-cut chicken with a dipping sauce made from scratch and a taro cake made with whole taro, minced pork and salted egg yolk; there is also a fully vegetarian month each year, and the kitchen has prepared meat-free sets for guests observing Ramadan.

Praise is nearly unanimous: ingredients come from local small farms and breeders, every dish shows care, the couple are warm hosts and the explanations deepen your understanding of Taiwanese food. The drawbacks are very few seats, hard-to-get bookings and limited opening days; prices are at tasting-menu level, above typical Taiwanese restaurants, and menus and prices change with the season, so check before going.

Current listings suggest service starts around 6:30 p.m. on Fridays and 6 p.m. on weekends, running to about 10 p.m., but Michelin says to follow the hours posted on its social media; sources differ, so check before going. With only four tables, booking ahead is a must. Jiangdu Street is a residential lane, so use a nearby car park or take a taxi.

Ideal for anyone wanting to dig into Taiwanese food culture over an unhurried evening, and great for bringing overseas friends. Book a table for three to five, follow the season's theme and ask the hostess about each dish's origins. Mention dietary needs or vegetarian requests when booking.