Master of Mushroom (Xinshe)

Review

Master of Mushroom is on Xiezhong Street in Xinshe near Zhongxingling, in one of Taiwan's key shiitake-growing districts. News reports say Lin Ming-shun founded it in 2001, backed by a family that has grown mushrooms for three generations. Since 2021 it has appeared in the Michelin Guide Taiwan for six straight years, including Bib Gourmand recognition, and its current listing marks it as recommended. A second branch sits in Lugu, Nantou, on the road to Xitou.

The signature is the log-grown shiitake chicken soup: semi-wild log shiitake slow-simmered with several other mushrooms and free-range chicken, giving a clear broth with a deep mushroom aroma and no greasiness. The upgraded version uses premium tianbai shiitake with black-feathered chicken raised for 14 weeks, and a single-serving meal kit won an Excellent Selection award at the Ministry of Economic Affairs' 2026 quality hot pot contest. Regular sides include three-cup lion's mane (mildly spicy, juicy, great with rice), shiitake minced pork rice, mushroom sausage and a chilled wood ear salad, with a sour bamboo shoot chicken pot as an alternative; groups can order a free-range chicken and seafood set menu.

Media and bloggers generally praise the rich soup, saying even mushroom skeptics go back for seconds, and note the meaty lion's mane suits vegetarians. However, the most quoted prices come from a sponsored 2017 post, when a four-person chicken pot was NT$1,880 and the lion's mane NT$320, so current prices may differ. Michelin rates it mid-range, so budget more than for a casual eatery, and some reviews note that dishes and service slow down on flower-season weekends.

Michelin lists hours of 10:30 am to 7 pm on weekdays and until 7:30 pm at weekends. The wooden building has tiered eaves, a breezy semi-open ground floor and an air-conditioned upper floor, with roomy seating and distant mountain views. Large parking lots sit beside and across from it; cards are accepted, there is wheelchair access, service is semi-self-serve and online booking is available. The shop also sells dried shiitake, mushroom snacks and drink gift boxes.

Ideal for families and friends visiting Xinshe's flower fields or trails. Three or four people can share one chicken soup pot with the three-cup lion's mane and minced pork rice; smaller parties can choose the single-serving soup. Book ahead during flower-sea season.