Li Hai Braised Pork Rice (Second Market)

Review

Li Hai Braised Pork Rice is one of the few Second Market stalls that only opens at night — 4 p.m. to 3 a.m. — picking up right after Shan He across the aisle closes, which makes it a late-night base for Central District night owls. Articles disagree on its age, from 50 to 60 to 90 years; bloggers also mention that the family once ran a separate Yuanzi branch in North District, with conflicting reports on its current status. What is certain is that this is a market stall handed down through several generations.

The signature 'lu rou fan' is really braised pork slab rice — one thick piece over white rice — priced at NT$60 in some articles and NT$70 in others. Several posts describe the fat as melting and not too greasy, and the lean as a bit chewier than Shan He's; the dark sauce is salty and bold with a clear gelatinous body, balanced by pickled mustard greens and pickled cucumber. Soups are mainly the glass noodle pork ball soup and the shrimp soup: the 'rou yuan' here are pork meatballs, not Changhua-style dumplings, served with vermicelli and bamboo shoots in a light broth, while the shrimp soup is mildly sweet with a hint of ginger and plenty of shrimp. A limited tendon rice is said to exist too.

Reviews are mostly positive, though some find the overall flavor too heavy and end up thirsty, so it may not suit those who like it light. The pork ball soup rose from NT$20 to NT$30; side dishes are NT$20 small and NT$40 large, and even the small one is a big plate, so prices remain friendly.

It is closed during the day and gets busier the later it gets, so expect a short wait at supper time. Sources disagree on the day off, some saying Tuesday and others Wednesday, so check before you go. The table chili is fierce, so start small. Drivers can use the 24-hour Second Market parking garage at NT$20 per half hour.

It suits anyone craving a bold bowl of braised pork rice in the middle of the night. Order the pork slab rice with a shrimp soup and a side dish to share, and say clearly whether you want it fattier or leaner.