Chin Chih Yuan

Review

Chin Chih Yuan grass-bag rice was founded in 1978 on Guangfu Road and later moved to No. 170 Chenggong Road in the Central District, near Taichung Park and within walking distance of Taichung Station; the second generation now runs it. The name comes from the early practice of steaming rice in bags woven from rush grass, which gave the rice a faint grassy aroma. Plates and bowls have replaced the bags, but the sign and name remain. It has been a Michelin Bib Gourmand for many years and is often described as a rare bento shop to make the list.

You choose one of four mains: crispy pork chop, crispy chicken leg, shacha beef or fish fillet in black bean sauce, about NT$150 with rice and miso soup. The rice is Wufeng Taiken No. 9 with distinct grains, topped with house-made dried preserved mustard greens that are savoury, slightly spicy and great with rice. The signature pork chop is bone-in loin from freshly slaughtered pork, more than three centimetres thick and fried to order; reports describe a thin coating, a golden crispy crust and plenty of juice. The deboned cloud chicken leg is crisp outside and bursting with juice, and many think it is even more worth ordering than the pork chop.

The media almost unanimously praise the crispness and juiciness of the freshly fried pork chop and chicken leg, and the distinctive aroma of the mustard greens. There are other opinions too: one blogger finds the meat away from the bone a bit dry, and some think the price is high and would not necessarily queue again; also, the grass bags in the name are no longer part of the meal.

At lunchtime you often need to take a number, so go before noon or in the afternoon; dine-in is limited to forty minutes. The street outside is one-way and parking is hard, and Michelin says cash only. Sources differ on the closing day; the listing says Thursday, so check before going.

It suits anyone who wants a classic Taiwanese bento while visiting Taichung Park. On a first visit, order one chicken leg and one pork chop to share, add a sour plum drink and mix the mustard greens into the rice.