A-Lai Mutton

Review

A-Lai Mutton is inside Huatan Township's retail market and is the most famous old stall there. Supertaste's market feature says it has operated in the market for about 70 years, and one diner mentions it was founded in 1950; Global Views' Huatan guide notes it was named a three-star stall by the Ministry of Economic Affairs in 2010. Plenty of food lovers drive over from Taichung or Changhua City just for a bowl of mutton soup.

The broth is seasoned with angelica and sesame oil and uses mutton slaughtered the same day, so there is no gamey smell. The signature is skin-on mutton soup, recorded by Supertaste at NT$150, with bouncy skin and tender meat. There are also sliced mutton hot pot, mutton bone soup, offal soup and mutton liver, ideally with a bowl of misua noodles. Stir-fries such as mutton with greens cost about NT$250 and suit sharing.

Praise centers on the fragrant herbal broth and cleanly prepared offal, with heart, liver, stomach and intestine all tender; out-of-towners say it is worth the drive from Taichung. Critics found the stir-fried mutton ordinary and below expectations; prices are higher than typical snacks, around NT$100 to 200 per person; and the skin-on cut often sells out before noon.

Hours are about 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. until sold out, closed Mondays; an older Global Views article says 6 p.m., sources differ, so check before you go. The stall is inside Huatan Market, next to A-Dan oyster fritters. Parking near the market is hard; Supertaste suggests the Huatan No. 1 multi-storey car park and walking over.

It suits mutton lovers, anyone wanting a warming winter tonic, or those keen on Changhua market food. Come early, start with skin-on mutton soup and misua, then add offal or liver; groups can add stir-fried mutton. Afterwards grab oyster fritters next door or try other old stalls in the market.