Yanshui Bean Noodle Thick Soup

Review

Yanshui Bean Noodle Thick Soup is on Chaoqin Road near the Qielan Temple area and is Yanshui's best-known afternoon snack. A blogger's Yanshui food guide says the stall began around 1945, when the cattle market was in its heyday, and is still run by the Chen family; Supertaste also puts it on its Yanshui must-eat list and mentions dine-in seating. Older listings give No. 16 Chaoqin Road and newer ones No. 19, both on the same stretch.

The signature is the milkfish and oyster bean noodle soup, NT$50 small and NT$70 large, among four versions including a plain one. Douqian are short flat noodles made from beans, served with strips of loofah and oysters in a milkfish broth with a light starch thickening, silky and faintly sweet. Media warn that the milkfish has bones, so eat carefully. Chilli, pepper and black vinegar are on the table to season as you like.

Fans praise the sweet broth, fresh plump oysters and low price, calling it the classic snack after visiting the Octagonal Tower or Yuejin Port, and some liken it to a noodle soup you can simply drink. Criticisms include the bony milkfish, which is hard work for those unused to picking out bones, short soft noodles lacking chew, a small bowl, and a mild flavour that needs vinegar and pepper.

According to online information it opens from about 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. and closes when sold out, while older sources say 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., so sources differ and it is best to check before going. Arrive soon after opening, as latecomers often miss out. Diners note that payment is collected after the food is served. A popular stinky tofu stall is right next door, so grab a seat and order the soup first. Parking is mostly on the street.

It suits seafood lovers and anyone keen to taste Yanshui's local snacks, ideal as a stop on an afternoon stroll. First-timers can order the mixed milkfish and oyster bean noodle soup, small if you have a light appetite, and add black vinegar and pepper at the table; pair it with the stinky tofu next door or a nearby ice shop, spending about NT$50 to 90 per person.