Ya Rou Hsu (Hsu Er Jie)

Review

Ya Rou Hsu is at No. 35 Beimen Street in Hsinchu's North District, a minute or two on foot from the City God Temple. Supertaste explains that there are three Ya Rou Hsu shops run by the founder's three daughters, and this one, Hsu Er Jie, is the most popular and best located. Open from morning until the small hours, it is one of the best-known duck shops in the temple district and is often listed alongside Miao Kou Duck Rice as a Hsinchu must-eat.

The signature smoked duck is first steamed, then braised with Chinese herbs, and finally smoked over white sugar, giving caramel-coloured skin and tender, savoury meat that rarely needs sauce; choose the leg for the most tender bite. Duck noodle soup uses thick, springy noodles in a savoury broth with a sweet finish, and Smile Taiwan notes the shop uses Pingtung ducks and cooks each bowl in a small pot. Duck blood is flash-fried with black vinegar and scallions, silky, sour and spicy, and is ordered at almost every table; fried duck intestines with garlic chives are just as good with rice. Stir-fries come mildly spicy by default.

Fans praise the fragrant, tender duck, big portions and fair prices, recommend the fried duck blood and broth, and love getting hot duck noodles late at night. Common complaints are the crowded room, finding your own seat, a loose queuing system, average hygiene and tidiness, and some find the noodles soft and the blanched greens pricey.

Supertaste lists hours of 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily with no day off, while some reports say until 2:30 a.m., so check before going. Reference prices: duck rice NT$65 small, NT$85 large; duck noodle soup NT$70 small, NT$90 large; fried duck blood NT$80; fried intestines NT$120; smoked duck is priced by weight. There are paid car parks nearby; expect queues at weekend mealtimes, and say so when ordering if you avoid spice.

Ideal for anyone wanting classic Hsinchu duck rice and noodles, or a late-night meal after the temple. Two people can share a duck rice, a duck noodle soup, a plate of fried duck blood and a smoked duck leg, adding fried intestines if you like offal; whole smoked duck can also be taken away.