Xie Family Ba-wan

Review

Xie Family Ba-wan is at No. 388 Minsheng Road in Shuili, right by the traditional market and not far from Shuili Station. Gofunit's Nantou railway food guide says it has been open for over seventy years, and the Bunnyann blog calls it a long-established ba-wan shop and one of the few in Shuili open in the morning; another old Xie family ba-wan shop nearby is run by relatives, with little difference in taste.

The dumplings are slow-fried at low oil temperature, so the skin is lightly crisp outside and stays moist and chewy within, never hard. The filling is marinated pork hind leg with chunks of bamboo shoot that add crunch. Before serving, they are topped with the shop's white rice sauce, and chilli sauce is on the table. Soups include mixed soup, pork ball soup and tofu soup, and the mixed soup pairs nicely.

Fans praise the chewy skin, well-seasoned filling, crisp bamboo shoot, punchy chilli, low prices and friendly owner. Critics find the soups ordinary and light, some mention the occasional fly in this old-style shop, and the chilli sauce is very hot, so try a little first.

Online listings show hours of 9:15 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; check before going. According to Bunnyann, a ba-wan costs NT$35 and the mixed soup NT$25, but go by the prices posted and bring cash. Navigation leads right to the door; drivers can use the parking bays on Zhongzheng Road, and the market area is busy in the morning.

Good for travellers arriving on the Jiji Line or heading to Sun Moon Lake or Checheng who want a cheap snack. First-timers can order one or two ba-wan and a mixed soup, going easy on the chilli; to compare, try the nearby old Xie family shop or Dong family ba-wan and taste the differences in Shuili's style.