Wang's Milkfish Skin

Review

Wang's, on Anping Road, is a popular choice for a Tainan-style milkfish breakfast. Supertaste notes that the owner's family farmed milkfish and has specialised in fish-skin soup for more than twenty years, so they know the fish from pond to table. Doors open at 4 a.m., and locals and night owls drift in before dawn.

The signature skin still carries a thin layer of flesh, smooth and rich in collagen, in a clear, sweet broth made from fish bones, with vegetables to remove any fishiness and pork bones for depth. Pan-fried milkfish belly, fragrant outside and rich with belly fat, is a must for many. There is also savoury congee, fried intestines, milkfish ball soup and braised pork rice, broth refills are free with fish soup, and prices are friendly.

Most diners praise the fresh, clean-tasting fish and honest prices, saying about NT$100 makes a full meal, and some overseas visitors come specifically for their first milkfish. Dissenting views say the poached fish can be bland and dry, with the pan-fried version more popular; the omelette is made in advance and arrives cold; and peak hours are crowded in a no-frills canteen setting.

Hours run roughly from 4 a.m. to 2 p.m., extended to 3 p.m. at weekends, but some articles mention an evening session and Tuesday closures, so sources differ and you should check before you go. Street parking is hard, though there is a car park behind the shop. Older reports list fish-skin soup at NT$60, congee at NT$65 and fried intestines at NT$60; current prices may have changed.

It suits early risers, seafood fans and anyone after a local breakfast, especially first-timers to milkfish. Order a fish-skin soup and a pan-fried belly with braised pork rice; add fried intestines if you are curious, and stick to skin and belly if you worry about bones.