Tien Hsia San Chueh

Review

Tien Hsia San Chueh sits at No. 3, Lane 27, Section 4 of Ren'ai Road, about five minutes on foot from MRT Zhongxiao Dunhua Station, hidden in the lanes of the East District. The MICHELIN Guide lists it as a Bib Gourmand and includes it among Taiwan's must-eat beef noodles; TVBS and Supertaste both note its repeated listings and its nickname, the Rolls-Royce of beef noodles. The three wonders in its name refer to ingredients, technique and craftsmanship.

The signature Tien Hsia San Chueh beef noodle bowl combines four cuts: oxtail, tendon, shank and shank heart. Supertaste describes the shank heart as at least a centimetre thick, the tendon as melting and the oxtail as springy. The broth is simmered for about eight hours with two kinds of onion, four kinds of tomato and beef bones, giving a sweet, rounded taste that is not overly salty; the MICHELIN page adds that broth refills are free and noodles come in three widths. The pork chop rice set uses marinated, fried black-pork loin with soup and side dishes, and the cucumber with sesame sauce is crisp and nutty.

Fans say the beef is tender, the broth rich but not cloying, the dining room clean and comfortable and the service efficient, making it a good choice for overseas guests or business meals. Complaints centre on price: reports put the signature bowl at a little over NT$500, which some find too much for beef noodles. Others think the side dishes try too hard to be fancy and the vegetables are overcooked, calling it a neighbourhood regular rather than a destination.

Online listings show hours of about 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., until 9 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, with no fixed closing day; confirm before you go. The MICHELIN page lists valet parking, card payment and online booking, and diners advise reserving because meal times are often full. The room has a semi-open kitchen, U-shaped seating, chandeliers and velvet sofas, with a slightly old-school Western restaurant feel.

Good for anyone who wants a refined bowl of beef noodles and does not mind paying more, and for hosting guests or friends from abroad. First-timers should order the signature bowl to taste all four cuts; for something lighter, try the pork chop rice set with the sesame cucumbers on the side. Prices differ between reports, so check the menu before you go.