Shijie Soymilk King

Review

Shijie Soymilk King stands on Section 2 of Yonghe Road, close to the Zhongzheng Bridge and Dingxi MRT Station. The shop's own history and several reports say it began in 1955, when Li Yunzeng, an army veteran from Shandong, set up a stall at the bridge with fellow soldiers; it was first called Donghai Soy Milk and later took its current name. In the 1960s and 70s, Little League games were broadcast late at night, and fans came here for breakfast afterwards, which helped make 'Yonghe soy milk' famous across Taiwan. The shop is seen as one origin of the name and is known for opening around the clock early on.

The signature is freshly ground soy milk, which many articles describe as carrying a deliberate charcoal-roasted note and a strong bean flavor; fans say this is the old-school taste. The savory soy milk comes with dried shrimp, fried dough, scallions and preserved radish, curdling into a soft, tofu-like bowl with a generous portion. Flatbread can be filled with fried dough or egg, or with pickled mustard greens, and there are also soup dumplings, radish pastries and turnip cake.

Praise centers on the shop's history, the aroma of the soy milk and the convenience of eating at any hour, and many foreign visitors make it their first taste of Taiwanese breakfast. There is plenty of criticism too: some find the roasted flavor too strong, the soup dumplings ordinary and prices higher than neighborhood breakfast shops. One writer laments that the old shop has become commercial and touristy, with the old scene of cooks frying dough in the alley gone, and some diners mention curt service.

After a recent renovation the dining room is roomier, but the old counter for ordering and pickup remains, and crowds come all day, so expect waits at breakfast peak and late at night. Online listings show it open 24 hours, though it has posted closures around Lunar New Year, so check its notices before going. Parking is hard; taking the MRT to Dingxi and walking is easiest, and diners mention spending a little over NT$100 per person.

It suits first-time visitors who want to taste the origin of 'Yonghe soy milk', or anyone hunting for hot food late at night. Order a bowl of savory soy milk with flatbread and fried dough, plus a hot soy milk if you like it sweet. If you are unsure about the roasted taste, start with a small cup and treat the soup dumplings as a side.