San Dai Tang

Review

San Dai Tang stands on Shuimei Street in Sanyi Township, the stretch where visitors browse the woodcarving shops. Supertaste reports that this Hakka restaurant has passed through three generations over more than fifty-one years. The third generation reworked the room into a stylish, modern space and calls the cooking 'renewed old cuisine', keeping old flavours while adding new methods. Among Sanyi's many Hakka eateries, it is one that younger diners also seek out.

Signatures named in coverage include white-cut free-range chicken, Hakka braised pork belly, bird-won't-land rice and a 'white jade trio'. The braised pork is cooked until meltingly soft, and bird-won't-land is a local wild plant whose tender leaves are mixed into rice for a distinctive aroma. Diners also mention braised pork with preserved mustard that is rich but not greasy, popular fried rice and fried pumpkin, and tofu with kumquat sauce. The counter sells Hakka mochi, rice cakes and sauces to take home.

Praise usually says the food is more refined than typical Hakka fare and not overly salty, and staff are friendly, checking whether guests have had enough. Critics feel the soups are pricey, that two people cannot try many dishes, and that food comes out slowly when weekends are busy. Overall the reputation is consistent and refined, at a mid-range price.

Hours are about 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch and 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. for dinner, closed Tuesdays; weekend evenings may run a little later, so follow the shop's notices. The ground floor has few seats, and both guesthouse owners and diners suggest phoning ahead, especially at weekends. Parking on Shuimei Street is tight on holidays, so use a nearby paid car park and walk over.

Ideal for couples, friends or small families who have finished browsing Sanyi's woodcarving street and want a Hakka meal with a fresh touch. Two people can order the chicken or braised pork, bird-won't-land rice and a seasonal vegetable; larger groups can add the preserved mustard pork, fried pumpkin and a soup, then pick up a box of mochi at the counter as a gift.