Yuli Qiaotou Stinky Tofu

Review

The original Yuli Qiaotou Stinky Tofu is on Minquan Street in Yuli Township, Hualien County, and it is one of the most famous stinky tofu shops in the East Rift Valley. CommonWealth's Smile Taiwan lists it as a must-eat on its two-day Yuli and Ruisui trip, and Supertaste reports queues before opening, with waits of over an hour not unusual. There are now branches in Hualien City, Taipei and elsewhere, but many people still travel to Yuli for the original.

The tofu is made from imported Canadian non-GMO soybeans, fermented naturally and fried in stages at three oil temperatures, so the skin is crisp without being tough and the inside stays soft and juicy. It arrives piled with pickled cabbage and shredded radish, plus basil, and dressed with the shop's chilli sauce and a garlicky sauce; Smile Taiwan also notes it is fried in clean oil with generous toppings. Reviewers describe a pronounced fermented aroma and a darker interior, making it a favourite of strong-flavour lovers.

Fans call it the best stinky tofu they have had, with the crisp skin and pickles an almost perfect match and well worth the queue. Detractors find the smell too intense, stronger than typical stinky tofu, and say companions may not cope; others dislike the long wait. One reviewer who compared outlets felt branches give less radish than the original, so Yuli remains the place for the full version.

It opens roughly 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., with occasional irregular closures announced on its Facebook page, so check first. Take a number on arrival and order when called; there are small and large portions, and you can grab drinks such as soy-milk black tea from the fridge and pay together. There is no obvious sign at the door: it sits between a doughnut shop and a fruit-ice shop, so look for the queue. It may sell out before closing time.

It suits stinky tofu lovers willing to queue for a plate of street food, and it makes an afternoon snack when passing through Yuli on a valley trip. Smile Taiwan suggests collecting a number around 4 p.m. and exploring nearby while you wait. A small portion suits one person and a large one can be shared by two; if you avoid spice, ask for no chilli.