Ning Bo Xiao Guan

Review

Ning Bo Xiao Guan is at No. 146 Xueshi Road in Taichung's North District, near China Medical University. Founded in 2008 by husband and wife Shen Chao-chi and Teng Ling-ju, it has been running for nearly 20 years and is a familiar Jiangzhe-style eatery for the university's staff and students. Teng, who develops the dishes, blends Jiangzhe cooking with Taiwanese banquet-hall flavours and sticks to a "three lows, two highs" principle: low sugar, low salt and low cholesterol, high freshness and high fibre. She works with Taiwanese small farmers, offers seasonal specials and sometimes off-menu dishes. The golden kimchi, golden bamboo shoot cake and Guifei drunken sausage have all been chosen among Taichung's top ten souvenirs, and the kimchi is described as a first-prize winner, though sources differ on the years and number of awards.

The golden kimchi, about NT$60, is fermented from Shandong napa cabbage, apple, carrot and garlic without fermented tofu, crunchy and gently sour, light and appetising. The Daokou-style roast chicken, about NT$199, is simmered in an aged master stock, with tender legs and more sweetness than salt. Candied taro in spun sugar, about NT$240, uses Dajia taro with reduced sugar, crisp outside and fluffy, creamy inside. The early signature, colourful pot stickers, uses dough kneaded with fruit and vegetable juice and juicy fillings; one blogger strongly recommends the house Dongpo pork, and vegetarians can choose three-cup king oyster mushrooms.

Diners generally find the prices friendly; one article says ten dishes came to under NT$2,000, with most dishes just over NT$100, and the healthy approach goes down well with older diners. Differing views centre on flavour: the low-oil, low-salt seasoning may taste too mild to those used to bold food, and since most dishes are refined home cooking, anyone after elaborate banquet fare may find it ordinary.

There is no service charge and no time limit. The ground floor has few seats, while the second floor has round tables for groups. Many dishes are available vacuum-packed to take away, handy for home or as gifts. Parking is available at the nearby Zhongzheng Park underground car park. Sources list hours as either 10:30 to 20:00 or 11:00 to 21:00, so check before you go.

It suits families, friends or colleagues sharing dishes, as well as older diners seeking light, healthy Jiangzhe food. Come with four or more, start with the golden kimchi, then add the roast chicken, Dongpo pork and a seasonal vegetable, finishing with the candied taro; pick up a jar of kimchi on the way out.