Min Le Swordfish Rice Noodles

Review

Min Le Swordfish Rice Noodles is at No. 3 Minle Street in Datong District, on a small street behind Yongle Market and Dihua Street, and it is one of the breakfast spots most often named in Dadaocheng. Yam's Yongle Market guide calls it a highly representative old shop, and reviews on Japanese travel sites also describe it as a long-established place. None of the articles give a founding year, but locals have been eating here for many years.

The star is the swordfish rice noodle soup. The broth is said to be simmered for hours from fresh swordfish bones and flesh, so it is clear and naturally sweet, finished with fried shallots, celery and a little pepper. The noodles are fine rice vermicelli that are soft, smooth and soak up the broth. The menu also has dry rice noodles, braised pork rice, swordfish ball soup, blanched greens and side dishes, and many people add a plate of fried red-braised pork, crisp outside and tender inside, which suits the light soup.

Praise centres on the clean broth that makes a good breakfast, the tasty fried pork, and the Japanese and English menus with staff used to visitors. Complaints mention crowds at peak times and frequent table sharing, and some find the broth bland and add salt, soy sauce or chilli themselves; one review was also unimpressed by the texture of the fried oysters.

Hours are roughly 6 a.m. to about 1 p.m., but sources differ: some say it opens daily, some say it closes Mondays, and others mention weekend closures, so check before you go. It closes once sold out even on weekdays, so arriving late may mean missing out. The shop is plain with few seats, about a 15-minute walk from Zhongshan or Shuanglian MRT stations, and the narrow lanes make driving a poor idea.

Good for early risers exploring Dihua Street and Yongle Market who want a hot bowl to start the day. First-timers should order the swordfish rice noodle soup with a plate of fried red-braised pork; two people can add dry rice noodles or braised pork rice to share. Those who like strong flavours can add chilli or soy sauce, while purists should sip it plain to taste the sweetness of the fish broth.