Meixiang Eatery

Review

Meixiang Eatery is at No. 208 Nanfeng Street in Taoyuan District. Supertaste's nationwide tangyuan roundup lists it as Taoyuan's representative, saying it opened in the 1940s and has run for around eighty years across three generations, moving five times along the way, with many customers first brought by their elders. A food booklet published by the Taoyuan City Government also features it as a handmade savoury tangyuan shop with more than eighty years of history.

Its most recognisable feature is the triangular rice ball, a shape said to have been devised by the founding grandmother, looking like a three-dimensional tea bag. The skin is made from glutinous rice that is soaked, milled and pressed dry before being kneaded, with preparation starting early each morning. The filling is marinated minced pork fried with crispy shallots, garlic, pepper and five-spice until fragrant, giving a slightly peppery savoury taste. The broth is simmered with cabbage, pickled greens and preserved mustard, layering well with the filling. Savoury tangyuan, pork thick soup and wonton soup are called the house trio, and some order pork thick soup noodles as a full meal.

Most praise carries nostalgia: one diner has come with parents for over seventy years, and others say the wonton soup tastes as good as ever and the owner is warm. Complaints focus on saltiness and peppery heat, prices rising year by year and pork soup portions seeming smaller; some feel younger palates may not be wowed and that it is more about old-time flavour and memories.

Hours differ by source. One media outlet lists Tuesday to Sunday, 9:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., closed Mondays, while newer online information shows Wednesday to Sunday, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., closed Mondays and Tuesdays, so check before you go. The shop is in the lanes around Nanmen Market where parking is difficult; come by scooter or walk from Taoyuan Station.

It suits anyone seeking old Taoyuan flavours or fond of Hakka-style savoury tangyuan, and makes a good outing with older relatives. First-timers can order a bowl of savoury tangyuan plus a pork thick soup or wonton soup. If you are sensitive to salt, taste the broth before adding condiments; with a bigger appetite, add a bowl of pork thick soup noodles for a full meal.