Jinsha Xiaoguan

Review

Jinsha Xiaoguan is in Jinsha village on Nangan's west side, a small fishing village with well-preserved Mindong stone houses and a quiet beach right next door. Choices in the village are few, and this little restaurant is nearly the only proper place to eat, but it does not rely on location alone. Supertaste lists it among Nangan spots recommended by locals, and the owner farms his own mussels, so they travel a very short way from sea to table.

The menu centers on shared stir-fried dishes in generous portions. Stir-fried mussels cost NT$300 a plate, plump and full of briny sweetness, and red-yeast egg fried rice is NT$100, a main one person can order alone. Another signature is the spicy poached fish, which must be booked ahead and is priced by fish type and party size, with adjustable heat. A blogger described it as fragrant first and numbing after, not harsh, with tender fish and noodles that soak up the broth. Expect roughly NT$150 to NT$700 per person.

Diners mostly praise the fresh seafood and well-made fried rice and noodles; one foreign traveler called it the best meal on the island, and others noticed the tidy, clean room and the lack of disposable utensils. The various shellfish, each with its own flavor, are often singled out. Negatives include the lack of alternatives, with some saying bluntly they ate here because it is the only place in the village. Without a booking at peak times you may not get a seat, and it is wise to ask about market-price dishes before ordering.

Hours are roughly 11:00 to 14:00 and 17:00 to 21:00, but sources differ on the closing day: one says Mondays are dinner only and another says it closes on Mondays, so call before you go. Book early for peak meals, and the spicy fish must be reserved in advance. Jinsha is some distance from Jieshou and Fu'ao Harbor, so riding a scooter is recommended, and after dinner you can stroll the village steps and beach.

It suits travelers who want to escape the busy areas and enjoy an unhurried seafood meal in a small fishing village. Two people can order the mussels and red-yeast egg fried rice plus a plate of greens; groups of three or more can reserve the spicy fish and pair it with fried rice and shellfish. Mussels are in season in summer, the best time to taste the owner's own harvest at its plumpest.