Hamasen Black Marlin Fish Ball King

Review

Hamasen Black Marlin Fish Ball King sits at No. 27-7 Gubo Street in Gushan District, in the snack area at the Daitian Temple square, right across from Lu's Shantou Noodles and a short walk from the Gushan ferry pier. Mirror Media says it was founded in 1953 and is now run by the second-generation Lu brothers, while Smile Taiwan gives 1956, so sources differ; all agree it is a taste of more than sixty years that grew out of Hamasen's fishing-port culture.

The fish balls are made from Donggang black marlin and have a springy bite, served in a pork-bone broth finished with celery for a clean taste. The signature mixed soup brings marlin balls, pork balls and shrimp balls, and with a bowl of house-braised minced pork rice it makes a simple lunch. Gua bao is also on offer, and some diners say not to miss it. Portions are snack-sized, so add another item if you are hungry.

Praise centres on fresh, bouncy fish balls, clear and non-greasy broth and the local feel of temple-square dining, and many treat it as a must-stop before or after the ferry to Cijin. Critics find the broth on the sweet side compared with the salty fish ball soups they know, and some feel the price is not cheap for the portion size; there is no air conditioning, which makes summer meals stuffy, and some say the braised pork rice is oily.

Mirror Media lists hours of 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., while online listings show 10:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. and closed Mondays and Thursdays, so check before you go. Mirror Media lists the mixed fish ball soup at NT$60, braised pork rice at NT$30 small or NT$50 large, and gua bao at NT$40; one diner recorded the mixed soup at NT$50, so prices may have changed. Weekends are crowded, so weekdays are better. Hamasen's lanes are narrow with little parking, so taking the MRT to Sizihwan station and walking is easiest.

Good for budget travellers who want a taste of Hamasen's temple-square snacks, or for a quick bowl while waiting for the ferry. First-timers should order a mixed fish ball soup with a small braised pork rice and share a gua bao, then add a dish or two from the Shantou noodle shop across the way for a mini Hamasen snack tour.