Fuzhou Shizu Pepper Buns

Review

Fuzhou Shizu Pepper Buns is one of the most-named snacks at Raohe Night Market. The stall stands in the middle of the street in front of No. 249 Raohe Street, under the east entrance gate near Ciyou Temple. It has been a Michelin Bib Gourmand pick and shows up on almost every media list of Raohe must-eats. A dozen or so cooks often work side by side kneading, filling and slapping buns onto the oven walls, and watching a batch come out is part of the night-market show.

The stall sells only one thing: the pepper bun, listed at NT$65 in several articles, with one blogger noting it costs a bit more than it used to. The buns bake on the walls of a charcoal clay oven, giving a thick, crisp, sesame-covered crust with a light smoky note. Inside is pork with plenty of scallion, clearly peppery but not harsh, and hot juices spill out when you bite in. One bun is fairly filling, enough for light eaters.

Most diners and media praise the fast turnover, the juicy filling and the strong pepper aroma, and nearly every tourist stops by. Complaints focus on rising prices and crowds; some feel that beyond the pepper the flavor is fairly plain and the fame outweighs the surprise. The most common gripe is burning your mouth on the scalding juices.

Hours run roughly from 3:30 p.m. to a little after 11 p.m., though sources differ slightly and Fridays and Saturdays may run later, so check before you go. Buns come out in batches, so even a long line moves quickly; it is calmer before 6 p.m. There is no seating, so eat as you walk. Parking near the market is hard; taking the MRT to Songshan Station and walking is easiest.

It suits first-time Raohe visitors who want a classic Taiwanese street snack, and it is a great pick for foreign friends. Ordering is simple: just tell the cooks how many you want. Take a small first bite to let the steam out before eating. If you plan to graze at other stalls, two people can share one.