Du Xiao Yue

Review

Du Xiao Yue on Fuxing Road Section 3 in Yilan City is the long-established restaurant that Yilan people think of first when hosting guests. The name was chosen by chef Chen Chao-lin's father, Chen Jin-xiang, as a wish to get safely through the slow restaurant months of the fourth, fifth and ninth lunar months. Chen Chao-lin is the family's fourth-generation banquet chef; he entered the kitchen at sixteen and is now over sixty. Food writer Jiao Tong wrote a book about him and described his cooking as a new Taiwanese cuisine, and local officials often ask him to cook for distinguished guests.

The menu centres on traditional Yilan home-style banquet dishes. The signature xilu pork stew braises many ingredients together under a crown of egg fried into a honeycomb lattice; gaozha is made into large golden squares, crisp outside and silky inside; and the sun-and-moon dish combines duck eggs, minced pork and fish paste. According to Yam's 2021 report, xilu pork costs NT$420, pork jowl with Sanxing scallions NT$380 and seaweed with whitebait NT$300, with takeaway bento boxes at NT$150; prices may have changed, so check on site.

Fans mention authentic, homely flavours, fresh seafood and quick service, and say the set banquets suit family gatherings of eight to twelve; Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, grass jelly chicken and fried taro are frequent favourites. Complaints include somewhat cool service, plates not being changed during the meal and strong air conditioning, and some found certain desserts or lobster in holiday set menus underwhelming.

Hours are roughly 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. One report lists Thursdays as closed, but recent information shows it open daily, so check before you go. There is parking across the road, cards are accepted and there is no service charge. The second floor has private rooms, and booking ahead is wise for groups or holidays.

It suits travellers wanting to get to know Yilan cuisine, family gatherings and anyone entertaining visitors. Two or three people can order xilu pork, gaozha, a Sanxing scallion dish and a chicken soup; larger groups are best off booking a set banquet. For a lighter taste, try a takeaway bento first.