Cheng's Noodles

Review

Cheng's Noodles sits in Lane 201 of Xinle Street in Yancheng. A MICHELIN feature on breakfast dates its founding to 1936, and the inspectors' page notes it has traded for more than eighty years in a district packed with snack stalls. It is currently listed as a Bib Gourmand. The room is bright and tidy, yet the floor still has old patterned tiles and shelves hold vintage porcelain, so old and new sit side by side.

The signature cut noodles come in a broth simmered from pork bones, chicken and vegetables, and the MICHELIN Yancheng travel guide describes the noodles, tossed with fried shallot oil, as pure and simple. The other draw is the plate of assorted cuts: offal is bought fresh every day and the inspectors single it out as a must, while the free-range-style chicken is another speciality sold at market price. Rice vermicelli and many offal plates are also on offer.

Diners praise the fragrant, savoury broth and tender offal; some even prefer it to a busier noodle shop nearby, and others say the owner helps choose side dishes. Complaints centre on small cold-cut portions and mild seasoning, and the bill adds up once you order several plates, so a few people found it underwhelming.

It opens daily from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., ideal for breakfast or brunch. The MICHELIN page says it is cash only and air-conditioned, and bookings are made by phone. The lane is narrow and parking is hard, so take the MRT to Yanchengpu Station and walk. Plate and chicken prices change, so ask before ordering.

It suits anyone after an old-school Taiwanese breakfast or fond of offal. Order one bowl of noodles or vermicelli per person, then two or three offal plates depending on group size; ask the day's price if you want chicken. Those who like stronger flavours can lean on the house sauce, and sipping the hot broth slowly shows the shop's humble charm best.