Yancheng Beiji Temple Stinky Tofu

Review

This stall sits on the temple square in front of Beiji Temple in Yancheng, South District. Regulars simply call it by the temple's name, and the stall itself has no sign. A yam.com write-up says it started around 1993 on Jinhua Road before settling in Yancheng, while Supertaste describes it as a local favourite for more than twenty years, with two large woks and at least five staff working at once, making it the area's best-known late-afternoon snack.

Whole blocks of tofu are half-fried, cut into pieces and fried again at high heat, so the outside turns crisp while the inside stays moist without soaking up much oil. You can add chilli sauce, garlic paste and spring onion, and a crisp, slightly sour Taiwanese pickle balances the fried richness. A 2021 write-up listed a small portion of 10 pieces at NT$30 and a large of 18 at NT$50, but recent diners mention the large now costing NT$70, so sources differ and you should check before you go.

Diners mostly praise the low prices, big portions and quick service, and say eating on the temple square to live street music feels truly local. Criticism includes a smell that is too mild for die-hard fans, pickles some find bland, and takeaway losing its crunch, so it is best eaten on the spot. Queues form at opening, and latecomers may find the stall already packed up.

It generally opens Thursday to Sunday from about 3:30 p.m. to a little after 7 p.m., closing Monday to Wednesday. It does not open in heavy rain, closes early once sold out and sometimes takes unannounced breaks, so check its fan page first. Take a number, find a seat, and pay when your order is called and served. Say in advance if you don't want spring onion, garlic or chilli. Seating is on the open-air plaza, which is pleasant on summer evenings.

It suits fans of crispy fried stinky tofu, anyone wanting the temple-front snack atmosphere, and students or families on a budget. A large portion with pickles is plenty for two; first-timers can start with a small one. Eat it hot on site and take a stroll around the Yancheng temple square afterwards.