Anchovy

Review

Anchovy is a small counter restaurant on Linsen 3rd Road in Qianzhen, listed by the Michelin Guide under modern European cuisine. Ingredients are bought daily from the market and Qianzhen Fishing Port, with fish at the centre and techniques such as fermenting and pickling. Diners relay the chef's view that it is not fine dining but a Taiwanese restaurant devoted to fermented seafood.

Only set menus are served and they change with each day's haul, but the signature snail herbal soup is always there: fish stock simmered and repeatedly clarified into a clear broth with a finish of wild ginger lily. Diners describe layered flavours across an almost all-fish menu, and even people who rarely eat fish enjoyed it; seafood lovers will be especially happy.

Praise focuses on fresh, generous ingredients, a team whose enthusiasm is infectious and top-notch service. The drawbacks are few seats and a single fixed seating with little flexibility; it is cash only, so not ideal for spur-of-the-moment visits; and with fish dominating, non-seafood eaters have limited options. Set prices are not low, so check the current price before going.

It opens Wednesday to Sunday from 6 to 9:30 p.m., closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Michelin notes everyone is seated at the same time, so arrive punctually, as lateness disrupts the whole service. Bookings are handled directly by the restaurant. Seating is at the counter, it is air-conditioned and cash only; diners say you can bring your own wine for just a glass fee.

Suited to fish lovers, anyone curious about fermented flavours, or those who enjoy chatting with the chef across the counter, and comfortable for solo diners. Book ahead and arrive on time, ideally with a bottle of white that suits seafood. Mention any foods you avoid when booking, as the set menu is hard to adjust on the night.