Jiji Grandma's Stinky Tofu

Review

Jiji Grandma's Stinky Tofu is at No. 7 Jimin Street, tucked in a small lane about a five-minute walk from Jiji Station. Two Gofunit articles on Jiji food say it has been open for over forty years, while a 2019 Supertaste report says over fifty, so sources differ, but all agree it is one of the oldest stinky tofu stalls in Jiji, and many locals have eaten here since childhood.

Only two things are sold: fried stinky tofu and pork blood soup. The tofu is flat and thin, less than half the thickness of the usual kind, fried until lightly crisp outside and soft inside rather than shatteringly crunchy, and served with house-made pickled cabbage that Gofunit calls gently sour and sweet. The pork blood soup is generous and includes garlic simmered until soft, just right for cutting through the fried food.

Fans praise the low prices, a mild smell that isn't overpowering, generous pickles and a 'taste of childhood', calling the NT$10 soup a bargain. Critics used to crunchy stinky tofu find it soft and oily; the shop has no extractor, so clothes and hair can smell of oil afterwards; and at peak times the wait can be around half an hour.

Online listings show hours of about 2 to 6:30 p.m., while an older Supertaste report lists 3 to 7 p.m., so check before going. According to Gofunit, a plate of four large pieces costs NT$50 and the soup NT$10; the older report lists lower prices, so go by what is posted on site and bring cash. The lane is narrow, so park near Jiji Station and walk.

Good for anyone riding the Jiji Line or cycling around town who wants a savoury afternoon snack, and a gentle introduction for those wary of strong stinky tofu. First-timers can order a plate of tofu and a bowl of pork blood soup, with plenty of pickles; if taking away, eat soon after frying for the best texture.