A-Fu Caul Fat Pork Roll

Review

A-Fu Caul Fat Pork Roll is inside Chiayi's East Market and, together with the Wang family beef offal soup and the Yuan family tube rice, is one of the market's hottest stalls; both Supertaste's listing and a NOWnews roundup of the East Market call it a must-eat. The signature is an unusually thick caul fat pork roll that reports describe as the fattest in Taiwan, and first-timers are often startled by the size.

Caul fat is the lacy membrane of pork fat, which the stall wraps around a filling of pork, onion, water chestnut and vegetables, rolls into a thick log and deep-fries. The skin turns golden and crisp, the juices inside are slightly sweet, and onion and water chestnut add crunch. A related Supertaste report puts a roll at around NT$80, though check on site; it is cut into pieces to dip in the house sauce and is best eaten fresh from the fryer.

Fans praise the crisp outside and juicy inside and the hefty portions, with some calling it the best meat roll they have had in years and worth a half-hour queue. Complaints are about the long, slow-moving line, since only a few staff make each batch. The market has no air conditioning and is noisy with scooters, and some give up after waiting too long. There is a limit of two rolls per person, so you must queue again for more.

It opens from about 6 a.m. to noon, closed Mondays, and shuts once sold out. When busy, take a number at the stall first, or, as NOWnews notes, order by phone; home delivery is also offered, but reports say the delivery schedule can involve a long wait. There are paid car parks around the market, but the aisles are narrow, so walking in is easier.

Good for anyone wanting to try a Chiayi speciality and fans of fried snacks, or as something to eat on the go or take back to your hotel while exploring the East Market. One roll is big enough for two to share, leaving room for beef soup or sticky rice. If you take it away, eat it while warm, as the skin softens when it cools.