A-Gan-Yi Taro Balls

Review

A-Gan-Yi Taro Balls sits at No. 5 Shuqi Road in Jiufen, high up beside the old street's stone steps. Online guides say it opened around 1960, so it has been running for more than sixty years. Together with Granny Lai on Jishan Street it is one of Jiufen's two famous taro ball shops, often the first dessert visitors seek out, and its online reviews number in the thousands.

The signature is the mixed bowl, with taro, sweet potato and matcha balls plus a choice of red beans, mung beans or large kidney beans. The taro balls contain small bits of real taro, the sweet potato balls are fragrant and springy, and the matcha flavour is mild enough for people who usually avoid it. The balls are medium sized and firm, the sweetness is moderate and the portion is decent; have it iced in summer or hot when it is cold.

Fans praise the chewy texture, the fast service and the big windows at the back where you can eat while looking over mountains and sea, especially at sunset. Critics say its fame outweighs the taste, which they find similar to other taro shops. One blogger recalls a period of smaller portions, hard sweet potato balls and undercooked beans that has since improved, though cleanliness could still be better.

Online listings give hours of roughly 9 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., a little later at weekends; sources differ slightly, so check before you go. A bowl costs about NT$50. Order and collect your bowl at the front, then walk to the seating area at the back, which spans two floors. Weekend queues often spill outside but tables turn over quickly. Parking in Jiufen is hard, so taking the bus to the Jiufen Old Street stop and walking is easiest.

Ideal for first-time visitors who want a classic dessert with a sea view. One mixed bowl covers all three flavours: iced in summer, hot in winter. When it is busy, give up your seat once you finish and carry on along the old street. If you want to compare, order a bowl here and another at Granny Lai and decide which texture you prefer.